Durango: The Million Dollar Pause
The Joy of Giving, and Honoring the Ripple Effect it Created.
We left Cortez on a high note — full from breakfast, rich with conversation, and waving goodbye to our dear friends Kelly and Laura with promises to share photos down the road. East we rolled, tracing the Colorado–New Mexico border toward Durango — that perfect blend of frontier grit and modern-day mountain charm.
The drive was short but scenic, with Izzy standing at attention for every tight switchback. She takes her job as Road Safety Officer very seriously. As the mountains gave way to meadows, Durango came into view — cradled in a high-desert valley, pulsing with railroad history and fresh-brewed energy.
We found a sweet little riverside campsite beside the Animas River, and to our surprise, the iconic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad ran right past it. That whistle — sharp and proud — shook the windows and turned heads, even if Izzy was deeply unimpressed.
We had premium tickets for the next morning’s train to Silverton — a ride I’d been looking forward to for weeks. But after over a month of nonstop travel and a stormy forecast, our energy began to fizzle. The idea of racing to catch a 9 a.m. train felt less like adventure and more like obligation.
So we paused.
And in that pause, something unexpected happened.
That evening before our train ride, Izzy and I met Crystal, Randy and their Golden Lab, Max, they were fellow RV travelers from Napa Valley, CA. who had just arrived in town. We got to talking — one of those easy, spontaneous conversations that feels like it’s supposed to happen. I asked them if they had ever ridden the Silverton train, they said it had been on their list, but they hadn’t booked ahead, but they learned it was sold out. That’s when the idea struck.
I offered them our tickets, for the following morning departure. They said yes, and took our seats on the northbound train. What we didn’t expect was the email Crystal wrote afterward — a postcard-perfect snapshot of what became one of their favorite days of the trip to Durago. With her permission, here’s an excerpt from her story and photo from their trip.
Hello Gary and Lisa,
I wanted to thank you for giving Randy and me the “Tickets to Ride” on the Silverton Train this week in Durango. It’s not often a stranger offers such a gift, and this ride was high on our list of trip experiences.
We arrived at the station at 8:30 for the 9 a.m. excursion. Our seats were in the enclosed car, (the train and passenger cars were impectably maintained and restored) — we were so grateful you chose those, because the rain came. The train hugged the river for nearly three hours, often running eye-level with the rushing waters. The cliffs, the rock walls — it was all breathtaking.
I held off on using the restroom as long as I could, but when I finally gave in, I found myself sitting on the pot looking out at the open window… right at the roaring river below. I think it might’ve been the best seat on the train!
We arrived in Silverton at 12:45, just in time for lunch. The rain had everyone scrambling, but we found the Golden Rock Brewery, where we had what may have been the best pizza and beer of our lives.
The ride back was by bus, driven by Butch — a true local, full of stories and charm. He gave us the full history on the hour and a half drive back to Durango.
Thank you again for your generosity. Randy and I even saw you waving as the train passed the RV camp. It made the whole moment feel even more special.
Safe travels,
Crystal & Randy Gularte
NOTE: on their return to the campground, they gifted us with a 2023 bottle of Robert Biale’s, Black Chicken Zinfandel, Napa Valley. YUM, I guess they liked the train ride.
That day, while Crystal and Randy rode the rails through the San Juans, we stayed grounded. We slept in (I think it was late morning O’thirty). Journaled and emailed. Drank coffee. Had a late lunch. Let the river speak. And something in us finally relaxed and was rejuvenated. It was good.
The next morning, rested and ready, we set off again — this time on the legendary, 25 mile-Million Dollar Highway, one of the most jaw-dropping drives in North America. Maverick, Izzy, LisaMarie and the Chauffer (me), went off exploring the sites of the roadway with the reputation of amazing natural beauty. Carved into cliffs with no guardrails and no forgiveness, this stretch from Durango to Ouray via Silverton is pure adrenaline wrapped in postcard views.
We pulled over often. Stared in silence. Took it all in at many scenic overlooks, And the last one was Ouray, we descended in awe—OMG ! Simply Gorgeous.
Outside the town of Ouray, LisaMarie and I hiked to the base of Box Canyon Falls, where the water thundered through narrow rock like the Earth was letting out a deep breath.
She went to the top while I stayed behind with Izzy (Dogs Not Allowed off trail). She said she stood on the walkway, face misted, body thumped by the thundering velocity of water. It felt right.
Sometimes, the biggest adventure is the one you give away.
And sometimes, the reward is knowing that pause — that small decision to rest — created space for someone else’s dream to unfold. Our time in Durango was well spent.
Our next adventure was hiking the Great Sand Dunes National Park. Over 750 feet tall the dunes in this park covers nearly 150,000 acres. Wait until you see the next story and photos!
Great write up Gary! Also, what a wine gift. We belong to the Biale club-all of their Zinfadels are amazing.
My first two years of college was in Durango. At Ft. Lewis College. My dad came out for a football game, I was playing, and we took his rental car to Ouray. A snowstorm came in while we were there and it took us more than five hours to make the normal two hour drive back. We were sliding all over the road. Right past all of those memorial markers for the snow plow drivers who didn’t make it…